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Kazakhstan – Horsemeat and Two Veg

A Kazakh Nomads’ expression of equine affinity states, “Kazakhs are born in horses”. Perhaps that’s going a little too far, if taken literally, but there’s undeniably a very close alliance between man...

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Kyrgyzstan – A Day At The Races

Horsing around with the French, Americans and Swiss in a little-known corner of the world. From Here to There and Back Again: Horses and Cultural Ruminations in Kyrgyzstan Below the snow-covered...

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Kashmir – Fragile Mountains

Vince Gainey recently returned from a two-week mission to Pakistan-administered Kashmir to conduct an assessment for a humanitarian aid agency on provision of health services to earthquake survivors....

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Azerbaijan – Sumgait: A Stroll Through The Debris

When Claudius Bombarnac, Jules Verne´s imaginary hero in The Adventures of a Special Correspondent, arrives at the Apsheron peninsula on the shores of the Caspian he is appalled by the pollution, but...

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Abkhazia – The Bridge On The River Inguri.

An irate Saakashvili looks towards the lost land on the other side of the river from a big mural. This is the Georgian checkpoint, even if Georgia doesn’t recognise any border here. Nor does anyone...

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Ingushetia & Chechnya – Amidst The Rubble

The war in Chechnya has the dubious distinction of being Europe’s longest running conflict. In August I travelled to the war torn republics of both Chechnya and Ingushetia with the Danish Refugee...

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Northwest Frontier Province – Guncraft

“Oh, I cannot take you to Darra,” the Afghan fellow insisted. He ran a clothing shop in our hotel during the evenings, and specialized in shepherding around random tourists during the daytime; though,...

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Abkhazia – Minefields And Golden Beaches

“What’s this I asked myself, sitting up on my bunk. A mirage or the island of Tahiti? Or the heavenly lands of Samoa? That was Konstantin Paustovsky´s first impression when he first saw Abkhazia. It...

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South Ossetia – A Land Of No Crossroads

“The Georgians have built a funfair in the neighbouring village, I can see the ferris wheel from my balcony”, says 20 year old Alik Gassiev. There are also rumours of a hotel, a fitness centre and a...

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Daghestan – Return To The Caucasus

My last visit to Daghestan was in 1995, after which the neighbouring Chechen situation became more of a threat to Daghestan and I was told by my local friends that the authorities genuinely felt that...

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Kyrgyzstan – A Day At The Races

From Here to There and Back Again: Horses and Cultural Ruminations in Kyrgyzstan Below the snow-covered slopes of eastern Kyrgyzstan, the horses ran in the At Chabysh races that afternoon in early...

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